Precerpt from In with the East Wind: A Mary Poppins Kind of Life - Austria: Seefeld
Seefeld
Many years later, I took that train ride in reverse, as far
as Seefeld. Once again, the east wind had blown me into Garmisch, and I had a
day off. I contacted Johanna. Where could we meet somewhere between Innsbruch
and Garmisch? Seefeld!
So, once again I looked out onto the large Alpine meadow with
Wildsee, a lake, on one side and the town of Seefeld in the center. Johanna and
Franz met me at the train station, and we leisurely walked to the lake. Being
with Austrians, I expected to walk—a lot. The walk brought back the leisurely,
healthy, so-very-desirable pace of life I have experienced in Innsbruck.
On the way to the lake, we came across a small, picturesque
chapel in the meadows, Seekirchl little lake church, also called the
Heiligkreuzkirche, or Church of the Holy Cross). Original construction in the
17th century explained its baroque style, featuring a distinctive round shape
and dome quite unusual for Tyrol. The interior of the Seekirchl (Holy Cross
Church) in Seefeld is small, intimate, and strikingly Baroque, with an octagonal
floor plan, a column‑free dome, and a late Gothic crucifix from 1628 that has
long been venerated as miraculous and has made the church a pilgrimage site. The
open, airy, symmetrical feel to the interior compensated for the small size; I
figured maybe a dozen worshippers could fit into easily int the space. Visible
from inside through arched openings, a freestanding bell tower added to a sense
of verticality. Throughout, stucco work and curved lines typical of 17th‑century
sacral architecture formed a circular church, emphasizing the crucifix. Simple
compared to larger churches, the altar highlighted the crucifix and votive
purpose of the chapel. Built as a votive church under Archduke Leopold V, the
interior reflects its role as a place of prayer and pilgrimage rather than
grandeur. Seekirchl feels personal and contemplative. The dome and windows
allow natural light to filter in, creating a serene glow that enhances the
crucifix.
Historically, that crucifix stood in the middle of Kreuzsee,
an artificial lake drained in 1808. This now nonexistent lake, not Wildsee, is
the source of the name Seekirchl. The legend is that a pilgrim, standing before
the crucifix, was forgiven, prompting Archduke Leopold V to build the votive
church, a baroque jewel in an alpine meadow, evoking a deep feeling of serenity.
On we went to Wildsee, a natural Alpine lake, surrounded by
moorland, forest, and mountain scenery. One of the defining features of the
village, it features swimming and boating. We lingered there for a few minutes,
inhaling the Alpine beauty and calm, and then moved on to town.
The streets of Seefeld’s pedestrian zone are paved with cobblestones
and stone tiles, giving the town center that classic alpine village feel. That
is what I first remember when I think about the town. Not
rough medieval cobbles, but smoother, these patterned stones made walking easy
while charming the eye with alternating stone colors or geometric patterns that
guide the flow of foot traffic. Cars are restricted in the central zone, so the
cobblestone streets lined with cafés, shops, and benches feel like a plaza. Walking
those streets felt like stepping into a postcard: the stone paving, pastel‑painted
houses with frescoes, and mountain backdrop all combined to make Seefeld’s
center both quaint and vibrant. We ordered tea and pastries at one of the
little cafes—darned if I can remember the name—time to relax, Austrian-style,
after our walk.
One last stop. St. Oswald’s Church in Seefeld is the main
parish church and a major pilgrimage site. It’s much larger than Seekirchl,
built in Gothic style, and historically tied to the famous “Miracle of the Host,”
which drew pilgrims from across Europe. The interior is spacious, designed to
accommodate a congregation, with soaring arches, stained glass, and a sense of
solemn grandeur. Where the Seekirchl feels like a jewel box for personal
prayer, St. Oswald’s is a monumental space meant to inspire awe and host the
wider community. I found the story of the miracle fascinating. In 1384, Count
Oswald of Seefeld (not St. Oswald of Northumbria, but a local nobleman)
attended Mass at the small chapel that stood on the site before the current
church. During Communion, he arrogantly demanded a large priest’s Host instead
of the small one given to laypeople, insisting on equality with the clergy. As
the priest reluctantly complied, the altar miraculously sank into the ground
and melted, leaving a mark that pilgrims venerated, and the Host became
immovable, a divine sign rebuking Oswald’s pride. (In some versions of the
story, the Count grabbed onto the altar to steady himself as it melted, permanently
imprinting his fingerprints in the original altar.) The Count was struck with
terror, begged forgiveness, and died soon after. (In some versions of the
story, the count mended his ways and helped the poor for some time before
dying.) Because of the miracle, the small chapel and whatever
was left of the original altar was replaced by the much larger St. Oswald’s
Church, which became one of Tyrol’s most important pilgrimage sites. The
church’s dedication to St. Oswald of Northumbria, a 7th century
warrior-king who became a Christian saint, symbolically linked the miracle to
humility and faith, contrasting the arrogance of Count Oswald.
Seefeld’s downtown neighbors the train station. So, we were right back where we started in just minutes, and soon I was back on the train, headed north back to Germany after a brief, refreshing interlude with my Austrian friends and one more interaction with Austria and die Alpen, a lovely place indeed.
by Dr. Betty Lou Leaver
For more posts about and from this book, click HERE.
For more posts by and about Betty Lou Leaver, click HERE.
To purchase copies of any MSI Press book at 25% discount,
use code FF25 at MSI Press webstore.
VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ALL OUR AUTHORS AND TITLES.
(recent releases, sales/discounts, awards, reviews, Amazon top 100 list, author advice, and more -- stay up to date)Check out recent issues.
Interested in publishing with MSI Press LLC?
Turn your manuscript into a book!
Check out information on how to submit a proposal.
We help writers become award-winning published authors. One writer at a time. We are a family, not a factory. Do you have a future with us?
Turned away by other publishers because you are a first-time author and/or do not have a strong platform yet? If you have a strong manuscript, San Juan Books, our hybrid publishing division, may be able to help.
Planning on self-publishing and don't know where to start? Our author au pair services will mentor you through the process.
Interested in receiving a free copy of this or any MSI Press LLC book in exchange for reviewing a current or forthcoming MSI Press LLC book? Contact editor@msipress.com.
Want an author-signed copy of this book? Purchase the book at 25% discount (use coupon code FF25) and concurrently send a written request to orders@msipress.com.Julia Aziz, signing her book, Lessons of Labor, at an event at Book People in Austin, Texas.
Want to communicate with one of our authors? You can! Find their contact information on our Authors' Pages.Steven Greenebaum, author of award-winning books, An Afternoon's Discussion and One Family: Indivisible, talking to a reader at Barnes & Noble in Gilroy, California.MSI Press is ranked among the top publishers in California.
Check out our rankings -- and more -- HERE.
Comments
Post a Comment